February 7th, 2010

Guatemala Field Notes: Day 4

9 am – De-shelled the pergamino coffee with Victor (oversees processing) & Carlos to use and continued training them in roasting with the Gene Cafe.

10 am – Drove to another part of the farm named “Mangal” (Mango trees there).  Sergio was our guide today. Mangal is all Bourbon and probably has the oldest trees in Palmira. Within Mangal, there are 2 sections that run parallel up and down the mountain.  The 2 sides essentially form an “L” (1 side facing north, 1 side facing east) with the connecting path in the elbow of the “L”.  Mangal is dense with Bourbon trees.  The majority are in great shape and show less coffee rust then the larger section of trees. Sergio says there is a pretty large snake that lives in Mangal, I was just fine not seeing it. Speaking of creepy, as we walked back from Mangal to the truck, Sergio pointed out a Tarantula in a dirt hole.  I tried to snap a quick picture.  The tarantula scurried back into the hole. I missed it. Without hesitation, Sergio put his whole arm into the hole to try to grab the spider for me. Brave soul. No spider. Thank goodness! From Mangal we drove to a smaller lot called “Cementario” (near a cemetary).  Carlos joked that this is where the coffee gets it’s full body.  Cementario is a section of mixed varietals (mostly Bourbon & Caturra).  Looks to be in great shape.  The more I walk Carlos’ farm and see the others around, it is clear how well Carlos, his family and their workers take care of their trees. From Cementario, we hiked further up (calf-burning) to the last section of the farm named “Victorias” (Grandma’s name).  Victorias is the highest-grown coffee in Palmira.  It is another Bourbon-only (some yellow) lot that is between 1700-1800 meters. Victorias is the section that needs the most work.  Carlos has identified it as an area of focus for the new Bourbon seedlings.  The views from Victorias are simply stunning.

6 pm – Bruno (in charge of the trees and pickers) was invited to join us for dinner tonight.  It was a great meal with each other and learned a lot more about the farm, it’s history and the workers.

Pergamino to Green

Pergamino to Green

road to Mangal

On road to Mangal

Mangal Bourbon

Mangal Bourbon

Looking at Victorias

Looking at Victorias

View from Victorias

The view from Victorias (the other side of that mountain is the esteemed El Injerto farm)

MANY MORE PICTURES AT

www.flickr.com/photos/bullruncoffee/sets/72157623440318831/

Author: Dan

February 6th, 2010

Guatemala Field Notes: Day 3

8 am – Breakfast on the farm.  Very foggy this morning.

9 am – Carlos showed me the processing equipment, patio, nursery and warehouse.  Met Adrian, Eldelfo and Sergio who work for Carlos and his mom.

10 am – Set off to Hike the largest area of coffee trees.  Adrian was our guide.  Calibrated a barometric altimeter at the house at 1600m.  Essentially, this area of trees starts at the house and wraps down the mountain and then back up the other side.  Stopped truck at 1540m and started hike.  This is nothing like I imagined.  It’s a dense forest on the side of a mountain with coffee trees everywhere.  This is no MN corn field!  Primarily Caturra and Bourbon.  Found Yellow Bourbon at 1522m, 1500m and 1400m.  Large Bourbon patch at 1488m.  Patch of Maragogype at 1506m & 1545m.  1364m (bottom) to 1450m (on otherside of mountain) is Caturra and Bourbon. A few Catimor at 1380m.  1450m to 1567m is largely Caturra.

3 pm – Back on the farm.  Talked through process.  Pickers are mostly indigenous who come during harvest.  They are paid per box, which holds 100 pounds of cherries.  Because of the terrain, they pick an area and then come out to the road, where the coffee is picked up by a truck and driven back to the farm.  At the farm, the cherries are then processed through pergamino (dried parchment skin still on).  Victor is in charge of the washing and drying of the coffee. They have two pulpers, two fermentation tanks, a washing tank and channel and a large concrete patio.  They also have a three-bed mechanical dryer if needed.

5 pm – Today is payday at the farm.  Workers are paid every two weeks.  They are showing up to be paid tonight.  Each worker is called up to discuss their production and then get paid.  Bruno oversees the trees and harvest.  He has detailed notes on each picker and spends several minutes talking with each picker before they are paid.  As the group (30+) waits, Carlos and I pulled out a Gene Cafe home roaster I brought with for the farm.  With the help of many, we shelled enough pergamino for 200 grams of green coffee.  We then roasted it in front of them.  We ground it on a Virtuoso (yes, without letting it rest), and made 2 – 8 cup press pots of their coffee and served it up to everyone (even kids).  It was a great connection and we all had a lot of fun with it.

FOggy

Foggy Palmira

Yellow Bourbon

Yellow Bourbon Tree

Road to Palmira

Road to Palmira (upper right)

Charlotte's Caturra

Charlotte’s Caturra

Roasting

Roasting

Drinking

Drinking

MANY MORE PICTURES AT

www.flickr.com/photos/bullruncoffee/sets/72157623440318831/

Author: Dan

February 5th, 2010

Guatemala Field Notes: Day 2

8 am – Woke up in Antigua and walked through the Antigua market.  Picked up Carlos’ friend Alessandro who took us for breakfast at Finca Filadelfia.

9:00 am – We had an amazing patio breakfast complete with a fuming volcano.  I took a tour of Finca Filadelfia with Aura.  They had a very impressive farm. Shade-grown Caturra, Catuai and Bourbon.  Great processing equipment, beautiful tile patio and complete roasting and packaging set up.  I spent a lot of time with Aura walking through every step their coffee undergoes.  It will be very interesting to compare this coffee process to that at Palmira.  This farm clearly has great resources; specifically great and complete equipment and plenty of water.

11:00 am – ROAD TRIP!  Off to Huehuetenango with Carlos.  These roads are nothing like MN.  Up, down, left, right (I feel like I’m trying to unlock a secret level on Zelda) stop, go.  I really enjoyed our conversation today as we drove and drove.  We talked about: coffee and the challenges at Palmira, the complexity of poverty, Guatemalan adoptions, and the Guatemalan government.  Very challenging.

5:00 pm – Stopped in Huehuetenango (city) to stop by for a quick hello with Carlos’ sister and back on the road again.

8:00 pm – Pulled off the Inter-American highway (absurd amount of speed bumps in Huehue) just a few miles south of Mexico and onto a winding dirt road that climbed to the village of  New Palmira.  Carlos’ mom greeted us with a feast.  I feel so welcome here.  What a great family!

Breakfast Volcano - Finca Filadelfia

Breakfast volcano – Finca Filadelfia

Finca Filadelfia

Patio – Finca Filadelfia

Traveling to Palmira

Traveling to Palmira

MANY MORE PICTURES AT

www.flickr.com/photos/bullruncoffee/sets/72157623440318831/

Author: Dan

February 4th, 2010

Guatemala Field Notes: Day 1

4:30 am  - Taxi picked me up to head to the airport

6:30 am – Flight to Houston, then on to Guatemala City

3:00 pm – Carlos Palacios (Cafe Palmira) picked me up at the airport, stopped by his family home in Guatemala City and headed to Antigua

4:30 pm – Arrived in Antigua.  Carlos and I walked around the city.  Cobbled Roads, bright painted buildings, tiled roofs, old churches, many markets, Volcanos surrounding.  We had dinner at La Fonda Calle Real, followed by a visit to Mono Loco (which ironically had a MN Wild hockey game on).  Stayed at Hotel Casa Antigua.

Really had a great time with Carlos and enjoyed our conversation as we got to know each other better.  Our sons are similar in age and we have many shared interests.  Looking forward to a great week with Carlos and his Mom in Palmira.  This is a beautiful country!

Historic Church in Antigua

Historic Church in Antigua

Antigua

Antigua (Volcano in background)

Antigua Buildings

Typical Antigua buildings

MANY MORE PICTURES AT

www.flickr.com/photos/bullruncoffee/sets/72157623440318831/

Author: Dan

MARABA_016

COUNTRIES:

Australia – First grown in 1832, coffee production really took off in the 1880s and continued until the 1920’s when it fell off due to competitive labor costs.  It was rediscovered in the 1980s and continues to seek to define it’s taste profile.

Bolivia – Historically known for lower quality coffee, Bolivia is currently making great strides towards quality. Bolivia has benefited through it’s involvement in the Cup of Excellence Competitions since 2004, seeing auction prices as high as $21.10 per pound paid directly to the producer.

Brazil – The powerhouse of coffee production. Originally brought to brazil in the mid 1700s, coffee has since made a lasting impact as a major export of Brazil.  In Brazil, coffee is often grown and processed through large estates.  A large majority of high-yield, low-quality Robusta coffee is produced in Brazil along with some high-quality Arabica varietals.  Higher elevation Arabicas from Brazil are often used as a base component of espresso blends.  Brazil received a lot of attention in 2005 when a farmer received $49.75 per pound through the Cup of Excellence program (Brazil has been involved with Cup of Excellence since 1999).

Burundi – Introduced by the Belgians in the first half of the 20th century, coffee has since struggled through many challenges and transitions up through 2006 correlating with the end of the Tutsi and Hutu fighting.  Since 2006, Burundi has quickly demonstrated that it has a lot to offer in terms of high-quality Arabica coffee.  In Burundi, coffee is grown by many small producers and processed through localized cooperatives.  Keep your eye on this country of origin!

Colombia – Apparently Juan Valdez was born in the early 1800s when coffee was first brought to Colombia. He’s aged well.  Colombia has an extremely well-organized and advanced coffee infrastructure.  Associated with quality throughout the world, Colombia has built it’s brand on macro-collective strength.  Recent micro-lot separation has broken free from the Colombian coffee machine and deliver some really amazing coffees.  This origin has participated in the Cup of Excellence program since 2005 with auction prices as high as $21.00 per pound directly to producers.

Congo – Belgian colonialists brought coffee to Congo in the early 20th century, however, it has yet to really break through.  This is an origin with great potential, but struggles through continued political instability and poor coffee infrastructure.

Costa Rica – Brought to Costa Rica in the late 18th century, coffee has played a large role in the country’s development.  Costa Rica is actually the only country where by law, only Arabica (high quality) coffee can be grown.  Similar to other origins, Costa Rica has seen recent success in moving from a model where producers input their coffee into large mills for processing to a micro-model where producers process their own coffee. This origin has participated in the Cup of Excellence program since 2007 with auction prices as high as $21.35 per pound directly to producers.

Ecuador – Introduced to Ecuador in the early 19th century coffee was a large export through the 1970s.  Both Arabica and Robusta are grown in Ecuador with the majority grown on small farms.  Ecuador still has a lot of quality-based infrastructure and support yet to develop in order to break into the specialty coffee arena.  Another origin with potential.

El Salvador – El Salvador has recently risen to acclaim within specialty coffee.  Coffee was brought to El Salvador in the early 19th century.  It played a lead role in the country’s GDP for many years – up through the 1980s.  Recent micro-level production and processing has helped encourage the coffee producers of El Salvador.  This origin has participated in the Cup of Excellence program since 2003 with auction prices as high as $22.25 per pound directly to producers.

Ethiopia – The birthplace of coffee (google the story of Kaldi & his goat).  This origin has a rich coffee tradition including internal consumption and ritual.  Big floral (washed) and big fruit (natural) are common taste descriptors of coffee from Ethiopia.  Coffee in Ethiopia is grown on small farms and collected by cooperatives and mills.  Recently, Ethiopia transitioned authority to the Ethiopian Commodity Exchange (ECX) to manage coffee production and export.  This transition has concerned the specialty coffee industry as it has “consumed” smaller specialty lots into larger “branded” lots.  Only a few specialty-focused producers have gained exemptions from the ECX for their export.  Our Amaro Gayo offering is one of such coffees.  Stay tuned as we go more in depth on this origin.

Guatemala – Coffee was brought to Guatemala in the early 19th century.  It became an important part of the country’s development and continues to be.  Guatemala has established itself as a high-quality coffee origin with a classic bright taste profile.  This origin has participated in the Cup of Excellence program since 2001 with a hiatus between 2003 & 2005.  In 2008, Guatemala set a new C.O.E. record with the winning farm receiving $80.20 per pound.

Honduras – Honduras has yet to really make a name for itself in specialty coffee.  One of the biggest struggles is improper processing and drying techniques.  A lot of Honduran coffee has also been brought across the border into Guatemala to be sold as “Guatemalan”, since there is stronger demand for Guatemalan coffee.  In just the last few years, Honduras has been making strides in it’s quality.  This origin has participated in the Cup of Excellence program since 2004 with auction prices as high as $18.75 per pound directly to producers.

India – Wins the award for the best named coffee…”mysore nuggets”.  Smuggled into India in the 17th century, arabica coffee was primarily grown until the mid 19th century when coffee rust became a big problem.  Many of the farmers switched to the more hardy robusta varietal and it remains the majority of the coffee export today.

Indonesia – The country of Indonesia is made up of several island provinces including the following coffee-producing ones: Sumatra, Java, Bali and Sulawesi.  Coffee was brought to Indonesia in the 17th century and it was the first place outside of Arabia and Ethiopia where coffee was widely grown.  Indonesian coffees produce a heavy, rustic, unmistakable taste profile.

Jamaica – Made famous by Jamaican Blue Mountain Coffee.  Coffee was brought to Jamaica in 1728 and still struggles to produce a remarkable taste profile.

KENYA THROUGH ZAMBIA COMING SOON…

August 21st, 2009

Thoughts from Rwanda

100_0046

All:
Our work here has been mainly assessing the business of RWASHOSCCO which both exports and markets specialty Rwandan Coop coffee, and operates Cafe de Maraba, a roasting company here in Kigali.  Cafe de Maraba is a roaster wholesale business who sells to restaurants, hotels and grocery.  I will forward some Maraba photos.  The coffee which Maraba roasts and sells is from certain coops, but mainly the Maraba coop which is in Butare, Rwanda.  There are 15 coops total who own RWASHOSCCO and RWASH is a for-profit business designed to create additional revenue for the coop owners. The coops are all owned by coffee farmers.  SO, the idea is for the farmers to participate in an operating business which provides value addition (roasted coffee) as well as earn income from their crops through the coops.  The people here operating RWASH are good, but the barriers which they face – high taxes, low internal coffee consumption, constant power and delivery issues make managing a business here incredibly difficult.  Despite the challenges, they are selling over 50,000 lb per year of roasted coffee at premium prices in a market which is leading the continent in business growth.  There are many new hotels, and restaurants are busy with new ones opening.  Beyond our help in terms of roasting and distribution, Bull Run is also working with the export part of RWASHOSCCO as a customer (coffee buyer) to help them understand our needs so they can be met and exceeded by RWASH.

I am sorry this is stream of consciousness, but I have a few minutes on
the internet and wanted to forward some photos.

Stay well,
Greg